Yes, presently I keep tenebrios/mealworms myself, but you can only feed them dry stuff, as they don't take humidity very well. If you feed them wet/fresh stuff, there's danger that mould develops. In fact the last time I kept them I fed them a few pieces of old bread and it developed mould even before they finished eating it.
A bin with earth-worms would be nice because it would allow me to recycle veggie scraps, adn at the same time produce fertilizer. And apparently earthworms have a shorter reproduction cycle than mealworms.
Will take a look at it. Where my gf works (sports center) they sell different kinds of worms for fishing and they are quite cheap.
Thx for the tips
Cheers / Pablo _________________ AD ASTRA PER ASPERA
Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 7:17 am Post subject: ADD ON
I should have mentioned that, when you buy worms for the farm they are already boxed up by the breeders. I do know they are a variety of worms but, i have forgotten which ones.
Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 7:22 am Post subject: MEAL Worms
The oat bran and, chicken starter pellets are dry. It is just that it is better nutrition for the meal worms.
I am even thinking of trying chicken starter pellets on my kak,s
about chicken starter, I have read recently on a lovebird forum of a breeder that feeds them to his lovebirds and apparently he has better breeding results.
But... I personally have concerns about this.
So... we are now in this rush/fashion of organics/traditional raised chicken, that are only fed cereal grains of ecologic production... and meat is indeed different.
Then chicken starter also has certain antibiotics/chemicals and I wonder about the long term side effects of them.
I believe a natural diet, for men and beast, is much better than processed stuff. But that's just my opinion.
About the mealworms, I think along the same lines, better feed them a bit of leftover bread, seed shells, a leaf of leftover greens, etc... natural stuff.
Natural, and also cheaper (those are leftovers)
Cheers / Pablo _________________ AD ASTRA PER ASPERA
Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 8:22 am Post subject: CHICKEN STARTER
I use the Chicken Starter as the poultry industry is very well researched.
The same reason i give Vitamins. It is just part of covering all bases for me.
hi everyone
healthy varied diet veg and fruit and protein frm chicken, marrow and seeds dry and sprouted calcium etc ..... question is why the need for extra vitamins and pellets you have more chance of making your kak ill by overdosing on the good stuff.
moderation is the key its the same with healthy stuff as it is with unhealthy.
pellets and vitamins are designed for people/animals which cant get them naturally i used to do seasonal work at a chicken farm when i left school and these animals are mass farmed and far frm getting what they need diet wise.
the pellets are good and contain most of what the poultry needs same goes with the vitamins.
if your bird doesn't get the diet it should then yes these supplements could be the answer but personnally i believe its better the bird gets it frm natural sources ... if your kak does get the proper diet then using these supplements can do your kak more bad than good.
there is a post called "boo with the bad eyes" which is a good read with more info. _________________ thanks brucie.....
when i left school and these animals are mass farmed and far frm getting what they need diet wise.
The answer lays there
How long between hatching and killing ..life span 3 months?
life span of a pet kakariki 12 to 18 yrs?
Why are many animal remidies for stuff like worming ok for animals but not human consumption?
The farm animal lives say 3 to 10 yrs.....we live 80+ yrs
the pellets, artifical foods, drugs have short term benifit, long term effects. _________________ My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:47 pm Post subject: LIMITED
I use chick starter and vitamins as a sprinkle on top of veg and sprouted seed mix. Worming every 3 months to me is essential. I find it makes sense to me as i do it. Saying that i would never feed pellets!
Im sry, but to me that is silly....
Why worm unless one needs to?
Constant worming eventually causes resistance to the drugs, so eventually worming becomes pointless.
As stated, I have not wormed a bird for many yrs now, unless it is a new bird sourced else where...and isolated for several weeks.
This has been ever since I 'had a therory' about acetic acid...and have had it in practice ever since.
An elcheapo childs microscope, a coupke slides and test tubes and satuated brine soln is all thats needed to check for worms.
There is an old thread, how to and pics to ID which worm type. _________________ My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
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