Posted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 7:08 pm Post subject: Nest Box Design and Shape
hi all
what size nesting boxes should i buy or make ? our pet shop holds a parakeet one but im not sure if this is big enough .please could any one let me know a.s.a.p.thanks gypsie
Hi gypsie. I just brought a book on Kakarikis it says ("a grandfather clock type upright with hole upper part for entry and exit.measurements recommended are
1x1ftsquare (30x30cm)and 2ft deep (60cm) hole about 4inches(10cm) or a bit smaller. hollowed logs can be also used or even old plastic containers) don't fancy the latter myself . I am also new member and will be keeping an eye on you replies and good luck .Muva.
We use the 'boot' design
Its screwed together and easly dismantled ..Also made so that a side or front can be removed and screwed to a wall anywhere from the inside.
As to if its going to be a left hand or right hand boot, depends on where you put the screws in the cap on the tower.
On the inside of the front tower panel is a Welded wire mesh ladder. It starts about 30 mm up. This is so the chicks dont leave the nest to early, they have to be able to make a small jump to get to it.
Everything is rough sawn untreated Pine el cheapo Boxing wood. 200mmx 25 mm
Its getting late I will get some measurements tomorrow
Edit: We have 2 sizes 1 with 1m tower other with 500mm tower, the foot part is 200x 200x200mm
The smaller works better with yellow kikes, the larger red kikes, thu both work well either way...red chicks are a bit more enthusiastic so they have to climb more...keeps them in the nest a little longer.
Advantages:
1/Eggs chicks are not underneath the parents going up and down
2/When inspecting eggs or chicks, the hen tends to only go up the towerr only, and returns without execting the nest. Once in the tower she no longer has direct in of sight and still sees here chicks that move to the heel, below her
3/Access to eggs/chicks is easy simple and quick.
4/Portable, we have even moved a hen and chicks inside a box to another flight NPs
5/Easly dismantled and assembled
5/Easy to clean and sterilze, use a lpg torch once dismantled
Nesting material is a mixture of 2/3 mulch from the bush and untreated native wood (rimu)shaving from a wood turner. About 40 to 50mm deep.
There are many designs just as good or better.
Hollowed logs...well they now lay on the floor or the quail to run around, never got anything to lay in one...they look good thu...and expensive...
Dont think about making one, its a bit 'hairy' digging out the center with the chainsaw and not as easy as one would think. _________________ My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
Last edited by Steptoe on Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:02 am; edited 2 times in total
These are the new boxes we are trying out. They measure 350mm high x 200mm square. We always place 2 boxes in each aviary so that the cock birds can roost at night without disturbing the hen and chicks. It also prevents the chicks from being plucked should the hen want to commence a new clutch before the first clutch has fledged. We recently lost a clutch of 4 young through a night fright. The box was too large and the hen moved away from the young who actually died from the cold. It is hard to find the happy medium. On the one hand a large box is good when there is a large clutch but as we discovered you run the risk of losing the young if the hen moves away from them during the cold nights.
Kakariki will breed on the floor in the corner of an aviary given half a chance. Mine have bred in cockatiel size nest boxes and large ringneck size boxes. I prefer larger boxes as kakariki can sometimes have 8 or even 10 chicks. My biggest clutch so far was 12 eggs, 11 hatched and ten of the babies survived to leave the nest, I think the smallest chick was trampled to death.
A big box is great in warm climates as kakariki don't do well in hot weather, so the large box allows them to move apart during the day to cool off and snuggle together at night, also there is less mess and room for the male to sleep in the box as well. A deeper box also means that nosy chicks don't fall out before they can fly. I would say the ideal size is about 30 - 40cm by 30 - 40 cm and about 60 cm high with the entrance near the top. There is a pic in the gallery of the boc that the 12 eggs were laid in.
Very important, don't position your nest boxes in direct sunlight as you will loose chicks on hot days.
Small cockatiel type boxes may be better in cold climates to maintain heat within the box. Our chicks have been ok in the big boxes with overnight temperatures just above freezing (2 -5C).
I use untreated wood shavings as nesting material. Make sure the shavings are compacted (push down with your hand) if they are large otherwise the eggs tend to work there way down into the shavings and don't hatch. Sawdust is not a good idea - too dusty.
These are the new boxes we are trying out. They measure 350mm high x 200mm square. We always place 2 boxes in each aviary so that the cock birds can roost at night without disturbing the hen and chicks. It also prevents the chicks from being plucked should the hen want to commence a new clutch before the first clutch has fledged. We recently lost a clutch of 4 young through a night fright. The box was too large and the hen moved away from the young who actually died from the cold. It is hard to find the happy medium. On the one hand a large box is good when there is a large clutch but as we discovered you run the risk of losing the young if the hen moves away from them during the cold nights.
Thats really nice nest box..
Can u explain how is it made inside?Thanks
We use a mesh ladde very similar to what Steptoe describes in his post. The hens will climb up and down the ladder to enter and leave. The chicks have so far been fully feathered before they leave the nest box.
We dont use the boot style anymore, only reason being its easier to make the simple box type.....the tower without the base.
The foot was about 500mm
Basically same as the tower part fitted to the bottom of it. _________________ My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
Reason...I needed in a real hurry a lot more nesting boxes, in a very short time and had no spare timber, So I chopped the remaining spare boxes.
A couple yrs back, all ok, fine except once when had a batch of 9 or 10 chicks...bit crowed and lost 1, a few yrs back.
Size fine _________________ My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
Update to my post above...
We moved to nest boxes like the bot above, without the boot.. 500 mm deep.
This allowed good depth which includes 50 to 70mm of mulch / turners
with mesh ladder to about 50 to 60mm above wood shavings in the bottom.If too shallow/ gap between ladder and top of compacted bedding material, the check merge too early, hurt themselves when take the big jump. Once they leave, ..even if early they will keep on leaving which causes issues of weaning, weather, and further damage cause they want to climb, to the top most cnr and cant perch well, fall etc.
Also consider the material constructed of and if can be dissembled easy (screws) re constituted type 'woods' are not suitable due to kakariki scraping the inside walls
If the dimensions and entrance are close and made of real plank wood to a cocketell box would be ok.
Making boxes doesnt require skill or a lot of tools.
Cheap rough sawn builders 20 or 25mm x 200mm boxing
A few self taping screws
A elcheapo hand saw
A screw driver.
a couple hinges if want to put the inspection door top of the front
easier to see in then trying to lift the top. _________________ My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
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