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Kakariki, Care, Breeding, Ecology, and Conservation :: View topic - Newbie with a baby kak
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Newbie with a baby kak
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lunaria1
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Joined: Sep 21, 2006
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 6:49 am    Post subject: Newbie with a baby kak

Hello everybody!
I'm Laura, from Italy. I've been reading and consulting you site from a while on, and I've decided to register asking for help.
From two days I'm having at home my first baby kakariki, and I wanted to ask for some advices in order to make him/her grow in the best way.

the baby's really a baby, white fluffy with very few tail and wing feathers and still very bald.
I'm keeping him in a brooder, 26 °C, inside a room where temperature is 22 °C and umidity's around 65%.
His weight is 60gr, and he eats 4 times a day 6ml of formula.

Seems like he's no problem in eating and he's a very brave and nice baby. he started to walk all around and when he's in the brooder he looks like he wanted to test his wings to fly, swinging them with energy.

I dont' know exactly how old is he.
Can you please tell me how his growing will go on? i.e. from 60gr how much and in what range of time he's to gain weight, at which age he should have all his feather, and so on.......

:?:

I thank you all in advance for any help you can give, and I hope to post some photos as soon as possible.
:oops:
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Kaka-riki
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Joined: May 30, 2005
Posts: 363

PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 3:08 pm    Post subject:

Hi Laura

w3c to our site.

It is difficult to judge the age of young Kakariki if there are no records kept. We have handraised many young Kakariki and they do vary in their development. A young bird weighing around 60 grams should be approx. 20 days of age and being fed 5 times a day at around 3 - 4 hourly intervals. 10ml of food (approx) should be taken at each feed.

The bird should be fully weaned and eating on it's own at around day 50. But these are only basic guides and should only be used as such. If you require any additional info I will post a copy of the chart we use as a guide.
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lunaria1
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Joined: Sep 21, 2006
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 7:45 pm    Post subject: thank you very much!

Thanks, really.
He's eating 4 times a day - 8 a.m., 12 a.m., 4 p.m., 8 p.m. and a sort of snack at 10.30 p.m. just to be sure for the night.
This morning, before the first meal, his weight was 54gr, and 58 after the meal. They told me to give him 1/10 of his weight, I gave him a little more - 7ml.
Yellow feathers are starting to appear - they seem even longer than yesterday and it's quite amazing.

If you dont' mind, I'd really like to see the chart you're using, just to have an idea about things will go on.

Particularly, I'd like to know when it's appropriate to decrease the frequency of feeding and increasing the quantity of formula - I'm worried about the meal at 4p.m. for I don't know when and if I may have troubles at work.

He also seems to be always hungry, even when he's completely full...is this normal?!
Measuring the meal is really useful...I mean, if it should be 7 or 10ml, it has to be and there's no reason begging for more...but yet he asks for more! I've read somewhere else that babies don't have the sense of being full and always ask for more: is it correct?

Again: they told me to make him seen by a aviary vet...but it really seems too soon to me to move him around the city. any suggestion?

Thank you very much again for all the help!
laura
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Kaka-riki
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Joined: May 30, 2005
Posts: 363

PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 10:13 pm    Post subject:

Laura,

We feed our young birds until they dont want anymore. They will stop eating when their crop is full so I would suggest you wont do any harm if you allow the bird to decide when it has had enough.

Always check that the crop has emptied BEFORE you feed again. You may risk the bird getting sour crop if you add fresh food to formula that is still in the crop. This method will also give you a guide as to when you can start reducing the amount of feeds per day. As the crop movement slows the time between feeds is extended.

I will post the table shortly. I will need to rewrite it for the site and will start a new post so that it can be accessed easily by everyone.
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lunaria1
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Joined: Sep 21, 2006
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 11:03 pm    Post subject:

Quote:
We feed our young birds until they dont want anymore. They will stop eating when their crop is full so I would suggest you wont do any harm if you allow the bird to decide when it has had enough.


Yesterday night, at 10.30 p.m., he was asking for more, but his crop was so full that it could be possibile seeing veins behind the feathers...so I stopped giving him formula. to tell the truth, I was a bit scared Anxious but maybe it's normal....is it? and the crop wasn't entirely empty when I gave him formula - it was the last snack before night, the "security one".
anyway this morning was totally empty, and I'm sure that it will be again at 12 a.m.

maybe I can delay the meal at 8p.m. and give one at 9p.m. avoiding the snack at 10pm to be sure the crop will be empty....?

waiting for your important help ^__^
laura
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Kaka-riki
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Joined: May 30, 2005
Posts: 363

PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 12:16 am    Post subject:

Laura,

It is probably better to make sure the bird is full at each feed and that the crop is emptying between the feeds. It is very hard to judge as we dont know the age of the bird. You mentioned that there are pin feathers so maybe the bird is ready for one of the feeds to be dropped and the time between them extended. It would be good if you could post some pictures as the bird may be slightly underweight for it's age. That is not a problem as each bird varies due to size and eating habits.
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lunaria1
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Joined: Sep 21, 2006
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:08 am    Post subject:

ok. in two or three ours I'll be at home and I'll post new photos!
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lunaria1
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Joined: Sep 21, 2006
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 4:27 am    Post subject:

here is it...a photo taken a while ago.
what's impressing me is that he moves around a lot when he's out and I feed him...he walks and walks and walks....
how much time can I spend cuddling him? he seems to like being caressed ^_^



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lunaria1
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Joined: Sep 21, 2006
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 7:50 am    Post subject:

more photos.....up to 64gr today...


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Orange
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Joined: Apr 17, 2006
Posts: 154

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 6:38 am    Post subject:

What a cutey!!
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Karen
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Joined: Nov 12, 2005
Posts: 221

PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:53 am    Post subject:

Beautiful baby!
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scully
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Joined: Mar 24, 2006
Posts: 71

PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 6:57 pm    Post subject:

he is so cute, looks like your doing a great job being his mum

im sure he would not say no to too many cuddles. Its wonderful watching them grow.
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lunaria1
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Joined: Sep 21, 2006
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 4:21 am    Post subject:

Here are new photos....he (or she? somebody could already tell?) grows more and more and now is more than 71gr. I like to cuddle Kimala...it needs some time for him to relax and enjoy anyway...is it normal?

after that, he appears not to be able to put one toe in the right position: it's the small toe that should be positioned looking back - I don't konw how to explain it - but he keeps it on the contrary. so he's got 3 toes in one sense, and only one in the other while it should be two and two.
Have I to do something about? Any suggestion? I'm afraid he won't be able to stay properly on the perch when he'll be full grown.....



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Steptoe
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Joined: Oct 06, 2004
Posts: 4550

PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 8:04 am    Post subject:

There is evidence to suggest excessive playing/handling young chicks forces then to walk too early...It is my understanding the legs are late to strengthen and devalope....ie chicks do not naturally wander around inside nests untill later...playing with them forces early use of feet legs, causing problems later on.
Hand feeding in brooders makes it temping to play.
We have never hand feed or used brooders..all our knkariki are reared in nesting boxes by the parents. We very rarely handle chicks untill adult feathers appear, and even then occasionaly. Of all the chickes raise only one or 2 have ever had crooked feet.

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MyGully
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Joined: Jun 22, 2006
Posts: 91

PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 10:45 am    Post subject:

-sorry if I repeat some of the things Steptoe and the others have said but I wanted to tell you about some of the things I learned about hand rearing - maybe it will help. First you have quite a big baby there, lovely.
When you are weaning you need to let them pick at several different types of food so.. place a dish with all sorts of sprouts, grass tops, spinach, peas, corn , broccoli, seeds and all other bird friendly vegies chopped in small pieces for your baby to taste and play with. At first he will not eat much at all but the experience will get him off formula quicker.

It is most important to let the crop empty. You sometimes come up with thrush (Candida) and they will die if it is not controlled. You need to keep them near a heat source to keep their crop warm (the food always needs to be given warm )

If they start to beg (this is why I wrote) you have a bigger job on your hands. You need to be careful- not cruel- and offer him seeds crushed and mixed on the tip of your spoon maybe after him is almost finished with his meal. This gives him something to do rather than gulp food. He will taste and feel it with his mouth and it will give him time to "think" of something else besides his tummy.

Steptoe and the other Kakariki experts will probably be better to ask about thrush if it becomes a worry but sometimes Cockatiel breeders use Nilstat for (human) mouths for bird if they think they have a problem (a couple of big drops 10 minutes or so before a meal).
Again beautiful baby! Congratulations!, Cheers, Kathy
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