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Kakariki, Care, Breeding, Ecology, and Conservation :: View topic - Breeding my Kaks...
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Breeding my Kaks...

 
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KiwiandLemon
Regular Member
Regular Member


Joined: Sep 08, 2005
Posts: 19

PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 5:43 am    Post subject: Breeding my Kaks...

Well, going to give it a go...see how it goes...

New to breeding so a few expectant questions...

1) What size does nest box have to be... i was looking at a cockatiel size box... but is that tooo small??

2) Do i have to do anything for them or will they feed each other themselves and raise their young?

3) What is 'Candling' and all other terms used with breeding and how do i do it?

4) What age can the chicks be taken from the kaks and sold on (Probably keep 1 or 2)

5) Do i have to remove other birds from the aviary during breeding?
(I have 2 male budgies in the aviary as well)

Sorry im new and dont know much about breeding so any help would be appreciated...


Thanks

Kiwiandlemon
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KiwiandLemon
Regular Member
Regular Member


Joined: Sep 08, 2005
Posts: 19

PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 5:56 am    Post subject:

Sorry i missed a question out..., what material do i use for the nest???

Saw dust? Straw?? Sorry these really do sound like stupid questions wall
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Kaka-riki
Site Admin
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Joined: May 30, 2005
Posts: 363

PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 3:02 pm    Post subject:

The answers to most of your questions can be found by doing a search on the site. I will try and provide as much info as possible

1) Nest box - We use 3 different sizes and all seem to work. A box that is somewhere around 7 inches square by 14 inches high should be fine. That is very close to cockatiel box dimensions so no problems. Make sure you have at least 2 boxes per pair in the aviary.

2) Feeding - Kakarki should take care of the feeding duties in regard to young. Make sure you supply plenty of fresh fruit and veg daily as well as a good source of calcium for the hen. This is best done by providing an after market supplement that is readily available for pigeon breeders.

3)Candling - This is done to check eggs for fertility. A special torch is used which shines through the egg to indicate whether the embryo is growing inside. Good local pet shops or specialist bird dealers will help you out there. Perhaps a search on the internet of suppliers in your local area would be the best bet.

4) Young chicks can be removed from their parents once they are independant and eating on their own. This usually occurs once the red iris has formed around the outer edge of the eye. As a general rule we leave chicks with their parents for 2 - 3 weeks after they leave the nest box.

5) Observation is the answer to this question. All birds are individuals and what works for one doesn't mean it will always work. If there is no fighting and everyone gets on well then leave them all in the aviary.

6) Nest box material - We use a dust free sawdust mixed with a small amount of peat moss in our boxes. Try and keep the material as dust free as possible as Kakariki do suffer respitory problems if the box becomes too dusty. We found straight saw dust created problems with hens hiding their eggs below the surface and not incubating them properly. The peat moss is used to tighten the saw dust and prevent this.
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Steptoe
Site Admin
Site Admin


Joined: Oct 06, 2004
Posts: 4550

PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 4:57 pm    Post subject:

There is an advanced search button at the top of the page, and to the left in the "quick search" box u can seach for words and short phrases in differnt parts of the site.
Or u may like to use other parts of the box to run google saerches and even translate this and other sites into your own language...
Thu I havnt coded a conversion from English to Aussie yet lmao

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KiwiandLemon
Regular Member
Regular Member


Joined: Sep 08, 2005
Posts: 19

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 12:08 am    Post subject:

Thanks this helps alot... what veg and fruit would you recommend and what is a good source of calcium???

Grr i h8 not knowing these simple things...

I know Spinach is good for them, going to use that to help tame the kaks...
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Steptoe
Site Admin
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Joined: Oct 06, 2004
Posts: 4550

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:27 am    Post subject:

There is a couple of rather detailed "diet" threads on veggies and fruit, also calcium intake which is critical.
Many suggest different sources, from cuttle fish to cooked egg shell
Calcium is a found in many chemical forms, and it is too often assumed just because a source has calcium it will do...It Doesn't. For extreme example, lets take cement and plaster of paris..both very high in Ca but feed to your birds it will kill them. Sources range from there down to those that are required.
Most probably the most effective source is raw clay. Which is also great for trace minerals and elements and what birds use in the wild.
Birds will naturally seek out suitable sources in the wild. It is at these locations they will be seen in flocks licking the cliffs. The problem with this is that not all clays are equal and without chemical analysis we would not know if the clay we give is suitable.
So it is necessary to give supplements. These come in various forms from powders to additions to water supplies. The general consensus so far for experienced members here is mineral/vitamin powders added to veggies and fruit. This is also covered in other threads.
We do the same in our world. Take NZ for example...our soils lack iodine and in many areas cobalt. Up to the 1920s gout was a major heath issue in the human population, So legislation was passed that all table salt had to have iodine added...within a very short time gout was no longer a heath problem...A few yrs ago a few PC do gooders lobbied that these additives in our food was wrong, so now our hospitals are filling up with gout patents again wall
One cannot supply a fully natural food to a captive animal/fish/bird (even plants)...one doesnt have access to the natural native trees, berries and plant, nor is able to supply what is required on a seasonal basis. Hence the need for supplements for Heathy well balanced birds

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