Help - New Owner

sazzle · New Member Joined: Oct 15, 2014 Posts: 3

I bought my kakariki about 6 weeks ago from the pet shop. Apparently he was hand reared but I'm not sure if this is true or not because he doesn't seem to like any contact. He has had his wings clipped but myself and my husband don't like this, will they grow back and allow him to fly. We do let him out of the cage which he seems to enjoy but still doesn't come near us. If he's in his cage whilst I'm talking to him he will come to the edge of the cage and appear to be listening to my voice but if I move my hand near him (even on the other side of the cage) he runs away. I think I'm just looking for some advice on looking after him and getting him to trust me as I don't want to get it wrong and upset him. I didn't really like the advice they gave me at the pet shop, they told us to handle him everyday by chasing him round the cage to catch him, not sure if this is correct or not. Please help..

Gunnsa · Snr Member Joined: Aug 26, 2011 Posts: 42

What you have been doing (sitting by the cage and talking) is a very good start - keep it up. Taming a bird is all about trust. At the moment your bird is not sure if it's worth his while to trust you.

I would continue siting by the cage and talk, not necessarily paying him any attention at all. Try keeping a spray of millet in your hand and offer it through the bars. Kakariki are by nature curious and he will not be able to resist the urge to check the millet out. When he is comfortable with the millet in your hand outside the cage you can try to put the hand with the millet inside the cage while sitting beside it (still not paying any attention to the bird).

It's possible that he feels insecure because of the wing clipping and is therefore shyer. That will probably change for the better once he gets his wings back and feels that he can fly to safety should you turn out to be a very dangerous kakariki-eating monster Laughing

You might also want to consider giving him a buddy sometime in the future as they seem to be a lot more secure with a same species partner around.

The petshop's advice about chasing him around the cage and handle him is definitely a bad one. By doing that he will never really learn that you are one to be trusted. Take the taming slowly, in babysteps and let the bird take initiative to contact. Kakariki are usually quick to tame and they are fast learners, so when he finds out that he gets treats every time he comes near you he will soon hop willingly on your hand.

That said, I would like to point out that kakarikis are not the shoulder-sitting, scritching-begging type of bird. They are always busy (people to see, places to go..) and have no time for staying in one spot for a period of time. They are explorers, mine four are constantly foraging and exploring around the house. They take part in everything you do without beeing in your way but close enough to steal your food.

sazzle · New Member Joined: Oct 15, 2014 Posts: 3

thank you for that advice, it helped a great deal. We asked the pet shop about getting him a buddy but they advised against it as it would stop him interacting with me (sounds like they don't know what they're talking about). Does it matter if his buddy is the same sex or is opposite sex better? Also is it usual for kakarikis to sulk? If he's upset about something he turns his back on us, the other day whilst out of his cage he found some cotton and it got wrapped round his legs so we had to handle him to remove it and he wouldn't even look at us for about a day. He kind of reminds me of our 2 sons who sulk when they don't get their own way.

Gunnsa · Snr Member Joined: Aug 26, 2011 Posts: 42

Having a buddy will not stop him from interacting with you, it will make him more confident and give him a chance to do "bird-stuff" that we humans ar not capable of doing. The question of same sex or opposite sex comes more or less down to whether you want chicks or not. I've got two pairs, one mixed pair and the other pair are brothers. Personally I would prefer same sex pairs because I do not intend to breed. My hen is basically always on on-mode and she spends most of her time out of the cage looking for possible nesting sites. So far I have dismantled a sofa, a printer and all the kitchen drawers because Miss Koru decided that these would make exellent nests.. The brothers are far more easy-going and manageable.

Steptoe · Site Admin Joined: Oct 06, 2004 Posts: 4550

Excellent advice
On the left is a "Quick Search" block
u can enter words or small phases taming diet etc

sazzle · New Member Joined: Oct 15, 2014 Posts: 3

With regards to getting him a friend. Can I put it straight in the cage with him or does it take time? Sorry if my questions are a bit thick but I've never had a bird before and I don't want to get it wrong

Gunnsa · Snr Member Joined: Aug 26, 2011 Posts: 42

It's better to keep the new bird in quarantine for about three weeks to ensure that it hasn't brought any unwelcome guests or diseases with it. When it's introduced in the other bird's cage it is recommended to rearrange everything in the cage so both birds get to know each other in a "new" territory. It diminishes the risk for territorial disputes. In the beginning there might be some skirmishes between the birds but usually they are fairly quick to accept each other.

Steptoe · Site Admin Joined: Oct 06, 2004 Posts: 4550

Dont get a friend... at least not that this point.....spend the time working with him then later maybe... and not a female unless u are set up for breeding and have holding aviaries flights for the weaning and off spring.